It is August and I am in Dharamsala in Northern India enjoying some fried noodles at a restaurant with my new favourite people in the world, Chris and Sebastian, a Canadian couple from Toronto. We are drinking chai and talking about our travel plans--where we might go, what we might do--and I mention that I am thinking about going to Nepal after India. Thier faces light up and Chris and Seb start sharing stories of the last time they were in Nepal: the months of trekking they did through the mountains, unguided, off the beaten path through the snow and rain, camping and climbing and exploring. I had been tossing up the idea of doing some trekking, but had been a bit hesitant considering I was short on time and didnt have any proper gear. "You should do ABC (Annapurna base camp) then," Chris recommended. "You can do it in 8 or 9 days...you dont even need a guide. There are so many people on the trail you cant get lost. And the views are really beautiful! I loved it."

I mentioned that I had been interested in Everest Base Camp, but only if the friend who might come from Canada would trek it with me.
"You should definitely do Everest Base Camp." Sebastian said immediately.
"Annapurna is nice, yeah, but its not Everest. The views are....incredible. You gotta do EBC!"
"Annapurna is nice, yeah, but its not Everest. The views are....incredible. You gotta do EBC!"
But I dont have proper gear....? They both assured me that anything I needed I could buy in Kathmandu. And the trail was just a gravel path, nothing intense, my running shoes would be just fiiiinnneeee. I didnt even need a guide if I wanted to save the money because the trail would be super busy.
"You need sunscreen and lip balm. And dont forget to wear it everyday! Chris forgot one day and got fried. You also need a sun hat and a warm hat. And a good rain jacket and water resistant pants. It would be good if you had a balaclava and polarized sunglasses. And a good pair of gloves," Sebastian recommended.
"And bring lots and lots of chocolate!" Chris added with a smile.
"Chris brought a bag full of those gummy candies. She loves them but they weigh a tonne!"
They exchanged looks and smiles.
"You might want to think about taking Diamox. Chris started taking it preventatively when we got to Lukla for the altitude. Some people also take Cipro because the hygiene isnt the best...they make patties out of the yak poo for fuel then go straight to making your dinner. But if you do India first I think you'll be fine. Think about taking Diamox though." Sebastian paused. "They dont talk about it very much, but people die up there. Everest base camp is a serious trek. Its high altitude and the weather can turn and make the trail dangerous. Dont do it alone. Get a guide and listen to him and you'll be fine."
I wrote down all the recommendations in my little everything book (which would soon become my makeshift journal) and filed thoughts of EBC away to the back of my mind.
Two months later, my Nikes and I started the hike to Everest Base Camp.
Two months later, my Nikes and I started the hike to Everest Base Camp.
recording trekking advice in my everything book