I just had a HUGE family meal at Mama's Guesthouse here in Lijiang and am just about to go for a nap, but thought I would update since I think its been awhile since my last post.
Took a 6 hour bus from Kunming to Dali with the french guy, only to find out that we were in new Dali and not old dali city. It was cold and raining and we walked around forever trying to find the bus to old dali. After the french guy argued with some cabs (he was in a tshirt and freezing) we found a mini bus to old dali. By now its dark and colder and we wander the streets looking for Guesthouse #3 listed in LP. I follow the guy for a while, but noticed that we passed the same building twice....then on the third pass of the building I pull out my map and refused to go any further without actually figuring out where we were. So...he said some angry words and left me there and kept going... and that is the last Ive seen of him. Its all for the best tho because I did ended up finding the guesthouse #3 (in the opposite direction) and it was all boarded up! I think I looked really confused standing infront of the nailed up building because a nice chinese guy showed me to another hostel, which was super cheap and really nice! (as an aside, a german guy i met in vietnam that i ran into again in kunming with the french guy and again at the guesthouse here in Lijiang...he said he didnt like the french guy...got a bad vibe and was glad we parted ways)
I walked around Dali for a day seeing the city, then staked out a dirty backpacker hostel called Friends and found a guy from Holland interested in biking! We went on a super journey the next day: he took a bike, I didnt...we waited for 45 min flagging down buses on the side of the highway before we found the right bus to this super small rural village an hour outside of town. There we called a guy who met us and took us to the site of a soon-to-be-luxury-guesthouse where we picked up a bike for me (some girl had gone on a tour and left it there...I was doing the guy at the cycle shop a favour bringing it back) and the guy gave me a big wad of cash to bring back to his friend! Then we cycled 40 km through the country side on dirt and paved roads beside "ear-shaped lake" , through really small wicked villages till we got to a town with a ferry and some famous temple. They made us pay to see the temple to get to the ferry, which was in the same closed area, so we walked (with legs of jelly) up what seemed like a million stairs, saw the temple, then carried our bikes down six flights of stone stairs to the ferry and haggled with the ferry people very unsuccessfully LOL because really.....this is the only ferry...where else will we go? We got on the ferry, which was FULL of chinese tourists and spent the rest of the ferry ride getting our pictures taken with them...
This is something new: TONNES of chinese toursits! And they want to take thier picture with me! Once one asks and takes a picture, literally a line of people (all women actually) form and they put thier arm around me and make a peace sign and get a picture while thier friends giggle LOL I kinda feel like a celebrity! The german guy I met again said that in the forbidden city in beijing he couldnt walk 10 feet without getting his picture taken!
Took the bus the next day to Lijiang and LOVE it here! The guesthouse im staying at is awesome...really a community feel and im sharing a dorm with some great people. Today I rented a bike with a guy that lives in shanghai who is here on vacation and we rode to Baisha and I met the famous Dr. Ho! We chated for about an hour and he took me into his assessment room and felt my pulse, looked at my tongue, felt my pulse again, looked at my tongue again, asked me about my period (??), then told me I was otherwise healthy except my digestion, which is SPOT ON. My stomach has been bad since coming off the mountain....1 night in Sapa and 1 in Kunming of being VIOLENTLY ill...like, well...I wont describe it but the most awful sickness ever ever (again, in the fabulous, unfortunately shaped squat toilet). I didnt sleep at all in Dali for pain and awfullness and my last night broke down and self-diagnosed myself on the internet, found the drug choices for treatment on the internet, found the chinese characters for the drugs, copied them down and set out for the pharmacy when it opened in the morning! Got them no problem and since a couple days of being on the drugs have been feeling much better! (I slept for the first time last night!) Actually, I ended up giving the paper with the chinese drug names to a guy I met here who had the same problem!
ANYWAY....Dr. Ho mixed some powders into a tea together for me...wrote some chinese characters on some brown paper and stamped it with a seal (for customs if I fly), wrapped the tea with the paper and gave me directions of 1 spoonful in water a day to help my stomach and circulation. Everything was free, but I gave a donation to him, had some special medicine tea with his wife, stopped at a side cafe for some Naxi food then biked back to Lijiang.
I will stay one more day here to let my stomach settle and wait out the weather (its supposed to rain for a day or two more) then I head to Tiger Leaping Gorge to trekk for a few days. After this I head to Shangri-la, which hopefully will have less chinese tourists then here and maybe have at least a little tibetan influence LOL If not I will head closer to the Tibetan border to Dequin....apparently tho the roads out of Shangri-la have been closed for awhile (political stuff) and have just re-opened so maybe I will get lucky and will be able to head to Chengdu from there.....
:) Nap time!
Cheers,
Anna
